Install a new oil pump shaft with a "steel" sleeve on the oil pump. Place oil pump in place and torque the oil pump stud to specifications. Always use an oil pump stud, a stock oil pump stud is not adequate. (figure 1 and 2) Carefully install the pick up tube making sure not to damage the tube while pressing it into the pump. Check the pickup tube to pan clearance. Measure from the oil pan flange on the block with the pan gasket in place, to the bottom of the pick up tube. (figure 3) Next place a straight edge across the oil pan rails where the oil pump will be located. Measure from the bottom of the straight edge to the bottom on the pan (figure 4). This measurement must be greater by 3/8" or .37 of an inch. Adjust the pick up tube until you have the proper 3/8" or .37 inch of clearance. Improper oil pump to pan clearance can cause oil pressure loss, which will cause bearing failure. Before you can install the oil pan you must install the timing cover.
Cam button clearance with the timing must be .005 to .010. Check this by using modeling clay. Adjust the clearance by carefully bending the timing cover. Install both the timing cover and oil pan using a quality gasket sealer. Building a leak-free engine is important, but too much gasket sealer will quickly be washed to the bottom of the oil pan where it can plug the pickup tube (figure 5 and 6). This will cause oil starvation resulting in bearing failure. The oil filer adapter will need to be tapped and plugged with a 1/4 inch pipe plug. This should be done before installing the adaptor on the engine (figure 7).

 
Figure 4

Figure 5

 
 
Figure 1

Figure 2

 
Figure 3

Figure 7

If you are using a bonded balancer we recommend marking the inner and out ring with a center punch. These marks give you a reference to see if the outer ring has spun (figure 8). If the outer ring does spin, your timing cannot be set correctly. When installing the balancer, it is very important to use a proper balancer installation tool (figure 9). Do not use the crank center bolt; you can pull the threads out of the crankshaft. NEVER use a hammer on the balancer. Attach the pointer tab. After you have the balancer installed rotate the crankshaft, setting the #1 cylinder on visually as close to top dead center (TDC) as possible. Move the piston down in the bore and attach a TDC stop tool over #1 bore (figure 10) and tighten the bolt stop. Slowly turn the crank clockwise until the piston contacts the stop; note the reading on the balancer. Turn the crank counter clock wise until the piston stops again, and note this reading on the balancer. True TDC lays is exactly half way between these marks you've made on the balancer (use a ruler to find this point). Paint or scribe a new TDC line or move the pointer if needed; adjust the pointer and/or line on the balancer until the mark on the balancer lines up with zero (0) on the timing pointer (figure 11).

 
Figure 10

Before starting head installation make sure lifters fit the lifer bores properly, lifters should fall under their own weight and spin freely. If you are using heads that have been excessively milled, using a valve bigger than 2.055, or using a valve lift more than .580 lift, use modeling clay to check piston to valve clearance. 060" on intake and .100" on exhaust valve is acceptable (figure 12 and 13). Once you have established that you have the proper valve clearance you're ready to install heads. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry. Install studs now if you are using studs. Use a Teflon sealant or RTV silicone on studs or bolts. This is necessary to seal head bolts and any other fastener that protrudes into the water jacket. Using a good thread sealer will also lubricate the threads for a uniform torque. Use lube between the cylinder heads, head bold washers also. Make sure you have the right length head bolts; you need at least .500" of thread in the block. Run head bolts or stud nuts down with a speed wrench (figure 14), NEVER use an impact wrench to run bolts of nuts down. Install gaskets making sure gaskets are installed with the proper side up. Torque bolts in three steps using the proper sequence; starting in the center of the head on Chevy small block (figure 15 and 16). Use 30 Ft./Lbs. on the first step, followed with 50 Ft./Lbs., and on the final step use 70 Ft./Lbs., going over bolts twice in the last step.

Figure 14

Figure 16

Step 4: Attach the degree wheel to the balancer and install the assembly on the crankshaft. There are several ways to attach the degree wheel to the crankshaft. In our example, the degree wheel is mounted to the balancer. The crank may be rotated from either the front or from the flywheel end. Obviously, if the engine is in the car, you must rotate from the front. Remember, the greater the leverage, the smoother the crank rotation, thus more accuracy. NEVER use the starter to turn the engine while degreeing the cam.

Step 5: Before installing the piston stop, rotate the crankshaft to get the #1 piston in approximate T.D.C. position with both the intake and exhaust valves closed. This can be a rough guess, but it can save you from making a mistake later. Adjust your pointer to zero or T.D.C. on the degree wheel.

Step 6: Turn the crankshaft opposite the engine rotation approximately 15-20 degrees. This will lower the position
enough to allow the T.D.C. stop to be installed in the spark plug hole. Screw in the piston stop until it touches the piston. (fig. C). Continue to turn the engine in the same direction until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Mark the degree wheel with a pen or pencil on the number the pointer is on (fig. D). turn the engine in the other direction, same as engine rotation, until the piston comes back up and touches the piston stop. Make a mark on the number the pointer is on (fig. E).